UV-Activated Sealer Cures in Seconds
Question:
I’ve heard about a new countertop sealer on the market that reacts with ultraviolet light. How does the sealer work and is it any good?
Answer:
The new sealer, called Counter-UV, manufactured by Kinloch and distributed by Surface 519, uses high-intensity ultraviolet (UV) light to cure the finish. It is formulated specifically for concrete countertops. While UV-curable finishes are common in the cabinet and flooring industries, a UV- curable sealer for concrete is a rarity. Historically, bonding issues have been the problem, but the manufacturer seems to have solved that with this product.
The finish itself is a specialized single-component, urethane-acrylic blend. It has no VOCs and offers excellent color enhancement, excellent stain resistance, and almost total acid resistance. Concrete Countertop Institute stain tests showed that only mustard left temporary discolorations in the sealer, and those could be easily and completely removed with household bleach. Very few sealers are completely resistant to mustard.
What makes this product so different from other high-performance sealers is how it cures. Most finishes, especially multicomponent products, can take hours to become tack-free and several days after that to reach full cure. Single-part finishes often merely need to dry out, so they become handleable faster. With the UV sealer, high-intensity, short-wavelength UV light initiates the cure. After exposure to the light for only a few seconds, the finish is ready for use. Thus you get the speed, convenience and ease of a single-part finish with the top-of-the-class performance offered by the best multipart finishes.
The UV sealer can be rolled on, sprayed on or wiped on. Rolling with a low nap (3/16- to 1/4-inch) lint-free roller is preferred, since the finish will flow out over time into a smooth film. Once applied, the finish does not cure and will not get hard, sticky or gummy until exposed to UV light. This is a great advantage because you can let the wet finish flow out or squeegee and back roll it repeatedly before curing.
You also have ability to adjust the sheen from high gloss to dead flat. If a glossy finish is not desired, you can sand the cured sealer to achieve whatever sheen level you’re after. But it’s best to use specialty sandpaper made for the solid-surface industry rather than ordinary woodworking sandpaper, which is not graded finely enough and can leave scratches in the finish. While these sanding discs are more expensive, they have very tightly controlled abrasive particle sizes that leave a uniform, scratch-free surface.
As with any finish, this one has its cons to go with the aforementioned pros. The finish will only cure with a specialized, high-intensity UV light. Sunlight, tanning lamps or fluorescent UV bulbs will not do the job. This UV light is expensive—about the same price as a large, high-quality concrete mixer. Because of this, it is cost prohibitive to try a sample of the finish, because without the UV light, the finish will not cure.

A white GFRC desk sealed with Counter-UV.
While some of these disadvantages seem significant, the system as a whole saves you the time of waiting for a finish to cure. It also is one of the easiest finishes on the market to repair, since repairs blend in well.
10 Comments:
How is the scratch resistance?
By
Anonymous, at 9:28 AM
The scratch resistance is very good for a coating. It is much better than acrylics and far superior to most epoxies. The UV sealer is urethane based, which explains its scratch resistance. Any coating will scratch if scored with a knife or other sharp, hard object like a sand grain or rough ceramic bowl for instance. Even glass can be scratched by these common items too.
By
Jeff Girard, at 4:36 PM
How can I get specifications for the UV light? I just want to know what bulb is being used; wattage, brand, etc.
By
Anonymous, at 4:28 PM
I would recommend you contact Surface 519 for inquiries about the light. www.surface519.com
By
Jeff Girard, at 12:25 PM
I purchased this system over 2 months ago and we are still developing the best way to achieve a finished look that we are happy with. If you actually want a premium high quality finish that not only protects well but looks great this system requires a significant amount of sanding using multiple random orbital sanders to offset the swirl pattern and high-grade sanding discs as well as a microfinishing compound. Applying the sealer isn't as simple as it sounds. Temperature of the substrate and temperature of the sealer are crucial. The porosity of your substrate also makes a huge difference in how much sealer you actually have to apply. This sealer has many, many variables to be addressed. Bottom line is there is a significant learning curve with this product, especially if you hold your product to high standards. The scratch-resistance of this sealer is also nothing to brag about in my opinion.
By
Anonymous, at 11:29 PM
All sealers have variables regarding ease and speed of application. Certainly this finish is not as simple as a single part sealer that's wiped on with rag. However it is less complicated than using catalyzed finishes that require careful mixing and precise dilution because they are sprayed. It's all about perspective, experience and expectations. It sounds like you had expected that it would be easy, simple, quick and not require practice. It's been my experience that this is almost never the case with a product that ultimately does what you want it to do: look good and perform well for your client.
Any new sealer that is significantly different from what you are using will have a learning curve involved. Finding and refining the skills and techniques needed to efficiently apply and sand this sealer do take time.
It's true that the porosity of the concrete will affect how much sealer is required. This is true for all sealers. What's convenient about this finish is that it can be used as a surface filler as well as a sealer. You will find that making sure your concrete is free of voids and pinholes will save on the amount of finish you use. This is generally good practice regardless of the finish being used.
Because it has a higher viscosity (it's thicker), it will not lay out glass smooth immediately. Allowing the finish to flow out over a period of 15 to 30 minutes after application will create a smoother surface that significantly reduces the amount of sanding required. If the surface is rough and uneven you will burn through a lot of sandpaper trying to level it.
As with almost all other finishes, temperature does play a role. It's good practice in general to be aware of the effects of temperature and know how to adjust for it. Cooler temperatures will inhibit the ability of the sealer to flow out. This is a property shared by many finishes. It's simply more pronounced in higher viscosity liquids like the UV sealer. Heating the finish or warming the concrete helps it flow out faster and more evenly.
Compared to bare concrete, sealed concrete will always scratch more. While this sealer never promised the ultimate in scratch resistance, its ability to be virtually invisibly repaired quickly and easily is a huge advantage that other finishes don't have. And minor scuffs and scratches can often be buffed or rubbed out with a Scotchbrite pad, something a homeowner can do on their own.
The UV sealer offers a benefit that most other finishes can't. With the UV sealer, the application method (rolling, brushing or whatever) has little or no bearing on how the finish ultimately looks. That's because once the finish is levelled (the hard part that takes the significant amount of sanding, as you've observed), further sanding merely smooths the surface, removes the scratches from the previous grit and brings the sheen to the desired gloss level. This is exactly analagous to polishing concrete. Using the right kind of sander (high speed, preferrably pneumatic) and the right sandpaper virtually eliminates swirls and scratches that cheaper sandpaper suffers from. That's the purpose for using more expensive sandpaper. And using the right tools makes the job go faster and look better. This ultimately yields a high quality product that will satisfy those with high standards.
-Jeff Girard
By
Jeff Girard, at 4:47 PM
Would this finish work on stone such as Marble, and does solvent take it off?
James C.
By
Anonymous, at 2:44 PM
James,
Yes, the UV cured sealer will work on stone, granite and even wood.
Common solvents like paint thinner, acetone, xylene, toluene and alcohol will not affect it.
- Jeff Girard
By
Jeff Girard, at 7:13 PM
I live in an area where the temperature varies with the seasons inside our shop. What would be the recommended temperature range of the substrate to apply UV sealers?
By
Anonymous, at 11:42 AM
I would recommend that the optimum temperatures to apply it are in the range of 70 to 90 degrees, as these warmer temperatures help dry the concrete and let the finish flow out. But it can be applied in cooler temps too, you just need to make sure the concrete truly is dry and give the finish more time to flow out.
The UV cured finish is a coating, and like many other coatings its ability to bond with the concrete and its cured performance are affected by moisture in the concrete. The ambient temperature of your shop can affect the finish. Colder temperatures slow moisture evaporation rates, so your concrete may stay damp longer than you'd like. In contrast, warmer temperatures speed up evaporation.
Colder temperatures will affect the viscosity, or thickness of the sealer. The UV finish needs to flow out into a reasonably smooth film before sealing, and this takes time. When it's cold, the sealer is thicker than when it's warm, so it may take much longer to flow out. Also, the sealer wets out the concrete to form a good bond with the concrete. The longer the sealer has to flow out and wet the concrete, the better the bond, but if the sealer is cold and thick it won't wet out as effectively as it will when it's warm.
The finish itself is not affected by cold temperatures. As far as I know it can be applied to cold, dry concrete that is above freezing temperatures. Always check with the manufacture though and follow their application instructions.
By
Jeff Girard, at 1:00 PM
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