SEALER SERIES Part 1: The Different Choices
This is the first installment in a 12-part series dealing with common sealer issues.
Sealers, and the problems associated with them, continue to be the biggest source of frustration for decorative concrete applicators around the country. It’s easy to understand why: There are a vast number of sealer products on the market for decorative concrete, yet many contractors lack a basic understanding of how to select and properly apply the products. This series of blog articles will address the most common sealer problems encountered in the field, why they occur, and how to avoid and repair them.
Before we can get into dealing with problems, it’s necessary to give you some background on the products being used. I am continually amazed at how many applicators I talk to that know very little about the sealer they have been using for years (other than the color of the can it comes). While most sealers straight out of the container look, smell and flow similarly, there are major differences. Here’s brief overview of the four types of sealer products used for decorative concrete. All have a different function, purpose and recommended method of application.
Cures are designed to slow initial hydration of concrete to create a stronger product and minimize shrinkage cracking. However, they are not intended to provide long-term durability and protection. They are applied as soon as the freshly placed concrete can be walked on, and they can be tinted to match colored concrete.
Sealers provide long-term protection and color enhancement. But they should not be applied until after concrete has cured. The recommended minimum curing time is 28 days, but most contractors typically wait only 7 to 14 days.
Cure and seals, as you might expect, blend some of the benefits of cures and sealers. Like cures, they slow initial hydration of concrete to create a stronger product and minimize shrinkage cracking. They also provide mid-term protection of 6 to 12 months. These products are applied as soon as the concrete can be walked on.
Coatings provide long-term protection, the best chemical resistance, and color enhancement. Like sealers, they must be applied after the concrete has fully cured (28 days). They may also require special surface preparation for proper adhesion.
Note that cures, cure and seals, and straight sealers all have a dry film thickness of about 1 mil and are breathable. Coatings are thicker (2 to 3 mils) and typically nonbreathable. Even with so many options and chemistries, the problems I see with these products, such as environmental impact and application issues, are similar no matter what product is used.
2 Comments:
We've used three different acid stain colors on a floor in a house we are building and have had issues with what I'll discribe as "sealer absorbtion". The darkest color we used a solvent based 30% acrilic with good results. A test patch on the two lighter colors turned the color way too dark, so I switched to a water based acrylic wax we have used with good results previously. Four coats later and the floor looks only partially sealed. It appears the floor soaks up the product or absorbs. OK before we get into issues about concrete quality, we poured this floor a 4" slump, no air, structural 2nd floor on plywood, with a good structural (minimal cracks), and good appearance. This was poured over a year ago in cool weather so it did sit for a year (under roof).
Do i keep applying the water based sealer? What about using a silicon penetrating sealer prior to any other sealer?
By
Pete Cockram, at 4:14 AM
This is a good case study of why a sealer system is recommended- base coat sealer with top coat “wax” or “finish” on top of the sealer. Most commercially available “waxes” or “finishes” are actually low solids water based acrylic coatings with a wax portion to them. They are designed to provide optimum use when applied over a sealer or coating, and need to go down ultra thin – 600+ square feet per gallon. You can use them directly on concrete, but you can count on having to apply many coats (5 to 10) to get any coverage and uniform gloss. These types of finishes just don’t have the body or solids to develop coverage as sealers and coatings do. They have different chemistry, different viscosity, and are a different all around product then a sealer. In your case, you are better off to just keep sealing with the same material, just plan on lots of thin applications. Even one thin coat of a true “sealer” prior to applying the “finish” would save 75% of the coats.
By
Chris Sullivan, at 3:45 PM
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