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Thursday, June 08, 2006

What Is a True Concrete Stain?


























A true acid-based stain reacts chemically with the concrete surface to
produce deep, rich color tones and attractive marbling effects.

Question:
There are so many products on the market these days labeled as concrete stains. How do you know you are getting a true acid-based stain?

Answer:
To simplify the answer to this question, I’m going to break down concrete stains into two families: reactive and non-reactive. With a reactive stain, a reaction takes place between the stain and concrete, forming a permanent chemical bond. Non-reactive stains are tinted coatings, sealers, or dyes that mechanically, not chemically, bond to the concrete surface. Instead, they fill the pores of the concrete surface or produce a colored film or coating.

While reactive stains are available with either an acid base or salt base, acid-based stains have been around the longest and are the measure by which all other stains are gauged. True acid-based stains are made up of inorganic metallic salts dissolved in an acid and water solution. However, Mother Nature limits the color palette for acid stains. That’s why most manufacturers offer only eight colors, mostly earth tones. A true reactive acid-based concrete stain is translucent, penetrates into the concrete surface, and leaves no film or coating.

Non-reactive stains have grown in popularity over the last few years because they offer a nearly unlimited palette of colors and are easy to apply. The downside is that they lack the deep, rich, translucent color tones only possible with acid stains.

While both stain types are viable options for the staining professional, it’s important to be aware that each product requires different procedures for surface preparation. Most non-reactive stains require an acid wash to open and prepare the surface to ensure good mechanical adhesion. Surface preparation for a true concrete stain will NEVER recommend an aggressive acid wash to open the surface prior to application. Applying an aggressive acid (such as hydrochloric or muriatic) destroys the cement paste at the surface that allows the acid stain to react and develop its marbled color variations. A hard-troweled concrete surface, rich in cement paste, is the food on which a true acid-based stain thrives.

10 Comments:
  • I don't know how to post a question for Chris, so I will try it this way. First, though I find your answers and knowledge extrememly helpful. Thanks for having this info available.
    My question. A 15,000 plus square foot job I could have but I have concerns. Concrete is 30 days old and was machine trowled. Performing stain samples it is obvious of a crackle like texture on the surface. I have pictures if you want to see what I mean. What causes this in concrete? This is on most (80%+) of the floor but I have seen this on other jobs but more sporactic on the concrete. I also notice when I get the concrete wet there are areas that instead of turning a dark grey they appear tan in color when wet. What is up with this concrete? Hope I get an answer. Thank you in advance.

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:18 AM  

  • Thanks for your feedback and question. The cracking you are describing sounds like spider shrinkage cracking from poor curing. This occurs when the concrete cures too fast and the concrete shrinks and these fine cracks occur. Not much can be done to remove these after the fact. Micro thin overlay and stain can be sued to cover these fine cracks. As far as the color, water only brings out the true color of the mix. The cement may be tan in color, or a large amount of fly ash could have been used. A test sample on the floor is the only way to determine the final look.

    By Blogger Chris Sullivan, at 10:25 AM  

  • I used a non-reactive stain and applied it with a deck sprayer and back rolled it. Now I have roller marks and it looks terrible. Short of scarifying, what can I do? I just want to remove the excess stain. Do you think an acid wash would help now?

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 4:51 PM  

  • Most non-reactive stains are acrylic based, which means an acid wash will do next to nothing. Roller marks are created by wet material being applied over dried material. This is why maintaining a wet edge during application is critical. As far as correcting this issue, try sanding the stain coating with 100 or 150 grit sand paper to rough up the surface and reduce the roller marks. Apply a second very light coat of stain maintaining a edge so to avoid roller marks.

    By Blogger Chris Sullivan, at 12:38 PM  

  • Chris,

    Great work and thank you for supporting this open forum. I have a question about the concrete in the above picture. How did the marble effect come out so strongly? I have to believe its in the concrete, but have never seen that look in a plain old slab.

    Thank you.
    DM

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:39 PM  

  • What is the best way to treat a cement garage and driveway to reduce hot tire marks and make for easy cleaning. How long does it last and what is required to maintain the qualities over time?

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 10:23 PM  

  • DM,

    This picture shows concrete very hard troweled. The burn marks from trowelign give the intense marbling. A floor installed with staining in mind.

    By Blogger Chris Sullivan, at 10:16 AM  

  • In the garage you can use a finish coat or wax modified top coat that minimize black marking. These are for interior use only, so don't put it outside. Reduce the solids in the sealer you use to reduce the black marking on the driveway. The higher the gloss = higher solids = more black marking and hot tire pick up. The other option is to not drive on the surface ;-)

    By Blogger Chris Sullivan, at 10:19 AM  

  • I am considering staining my concrete patio and have a concern with the concrete. I have three seperate pours and each has a different shade of gray color. Will this affect the color of the stain applies?

    Nick

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 8:34 PM  

  • Any type of transparent or translucent stain (like acid stains) will be affected by the base color of the concrete. If the color variation is dramatic, then the stain color difference could be dramatic. On the other hand, if the color difference between the concrete slabs is slight, the stain could overcome these color differences and look very similar. Sampling is the only way to really determine the outcome. I recommend testing the stain on a small area on each slab to determine the final color. You may want to consider blending multiple colors of stain to create a bit of color mosaic to work out color differences if the stain looks dramatically different on each slab.

    By Blogger Chris Sullivan, at 6:11 AM  

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