What is Chris Sullivan All About?
Welcome to my Blog! My goal is to contribute to the betterment of the decorative concrete industry by getting down into writing informatiion about decorative concrete so it may be used by many people and hopefully improve the industry.
Here is an article on The Concrete Network which tells you more about myself.
Chris Sullivan: Helping Contractors Better the Decorative Concrete Industry
It was by chance that Chris Sullivan, National Sales Manager for QC Construction Products ( a leading manufacturer of decorative concrete systems), accumulated years of decorative concrete industry experience.
Armed with a degree in Chemistry from the University of Pittsburg, Sullivan started his first “real job” with Bayer Corporation, the single largest manufacturer of iron oxide pigments, in an obscure division working with those very pigments. There, Sullivan gained experience marketing, as well as working in the lab making samples, testing and doing color matches.
“It was a great way to start in the decorative concrete industry, a great backbone,” Sullivan recalls. After three years, he went into sales for Bayer in Denver, whre he sold pigments to block, paver, and specialty pre-cast manufacturers as a technical sales representative for the company.
Next, Sullivan moved into Bayer’s polyurethanes coating division in Los Angeles as a technical sales specialist. It was eight or nine years before the pieces all fit together—the sales and technical experience that formed the foundation of Sullivan’s job at QC.
“At the time, I had no idea this is where I was going, but I was getting invaluable technical expertise in the industry, which all came together when I got the job working with decorative concrete at QC Construction Products,” Sullivan says.
“When I started at QC, I lacked installation experience,” he admits. “So I volunteered to work with installers to learn that part of the job, and I did lots of reading and got dirty doing hands-on work.”
Sullivan started with QC as a district sales manager five years ago, before being promoted to regional sales manager, then National Technical Director. As Director, Sullivan is responsible for Colorado sales, as well as a handful of sales representatives that cover a larger area (the Midwest and the Rocky Mountains), answering technical questions, and working with corporate.
“I answer larger technical sales questions nationwide…the variety keeps it interesting and fun,” laughs Sullivan. Part of that variety also includes speaking about troubleshooting decorative concrete at the World of Concrete.
“Decorative is this offshoot of the concrete industry, there’s an artistic element, as well as engineering and science,” Sullivan explains. “I see a lack of experience—[some] contractors not reading directions, trying to cut corners...The processes for decorative concrete are unforgiving, especially when you cut corners or don’t follow guidelines.”
Sullivan adds that another pitfall is underestimating the schedule of the steps involved. “There tend to be a lot more secondary factors at play, such as temperature, humidity, dew point, and ventilation,” he adds. “These are all learned by experience…And reading directions.”
At the top of Sullivan’s list of things a contractor can do to keep on top of his game: continuing education. In his Concrete Network article “Avoiding Problems with Decorative Concrete Starts Early: Seven Steps to Success Before You Start,” Sullivan writes, “Continue your education as often as you can. Schools, seminars, and product demonstrations are available everywhere. Take advantage of them. Be aware though, not all are equal. Do your research before spending any money…Keep asking questions. Keep learning. Strive to be an expert on what makes you money.”
“[Everyone] needs continuing education to improve the quality of their work,” Sullivan explains. “Be an expert, get good at the basics. Understand the products. Do [your] research. The Concrete Network is a great [research] resource.”
Sullivan also recommends getting involved when attending training, rather than just sitting back and observing. “Get hands on,” he stresses. “On average, less then five percent [of contractors] get involved and do anything…This is not a qualitative industry. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and get dirty. People who ask and get involved succeed.”
Another key to success that Sullivan recommends is focusing on your specialty. “Don’t get carried away with the artistic side [of decorative concrete] before you have the basics mastered,” he advises. “Focus on what makes you money. For every high-end job, there are 50 basic jobs.”
Sullivan forecasts continued growth for the industry, with no sign of slowing up.
“Overlays have come on strong and will continue…There’s lots of grey, already existing concrete out there,” he says, adding that interiors with overlays will also see continued growth.
“All in all, the market is strong,” adds Sullivan. “[But] it concerns me that a growing number of people are getting into the industry, both contractors and manufacturers. Bad jobs affect the whole industry. One job mistake can turn 25 to 30 people off of decorative concrete.”
“Manufacturers want to get into it because they think there’s low cost to get in, but it’s very labor-intensive and service-oriented to be a good manufacturer,” he continues. “All in all, the industry has come a long way and there’s a lot of good growth to go. [But] it will take a lot of discipline from all parties.”
“I hate to see good jobs go bad, but there will always be variables and issues,” Sullivan concludes. “[That’s why] I like the chemistry and quantitative side of my job, solving problems, giving solutions.”
Which is why Sullivan is in the perfect position at QC, as well as in the decorative concrete industry.
Here is an article on The Concrete Network which tells you more about myself.
Chris Sullivan: Helping Contractors Better the Decorative Concrete Industry
It was by chance that Chris Sullivan, National Sales Manager for QC Construction Products ( a leading manufacturer of decorative concrete systems), accumulated years of decorative concrete industry experience.
Armed with a degree in Chemistry from the University of Pittsburg, Sullivan started his first “real job” with Bayer Corporation, the single largest manufacturer of iron oxide pigments, in an obscure division working with those very pigments. There, Sullivan gained experience marketing, as well as working in the lab making samples, testing and doing color matches.
“It was a great way to start in the decorative concrete industry, a great backbone,” Sullivan recalls. After three years, he went into sales for Bayer in Denver, whre he sold pigments to block, paver, and specialty pre-cast manufacturers as a technical sales representative for the company.
Next, Sullivan moved into Bayer’s polyurethanes coating division in Los Angeles as a technical sales specialist. It was eight or nine years before the pieces all fit together—the sales and technical experience that formed the foundation of Sullivan’s job at QC.
“At the time, I had no idea this is where I was going, but I was getting invaluable technical expertise in the industry, which all came together when I got the job working with decorative concrete at QC Construction Products,” Sullivan says.
“When I started at QC, I lacked installation experience,” he admits. “So I volunteered to work with installers to learn that part of the job, and I did lots of reading and got dirty doing hands-on work.”
Sullivan started with QC as a district sales manager five years ago, before being promoted to regional sales manager, then National Technical Director. As Director, Sullivan is responsible for Colorado sales, as well as a handful of sales representatives that cover a larger area (the Midwest and the Rocky Mountains), answering technical questions, and working with corporate.
“I answer larger technical sales questions nationwide…the variety keeps it interesting and fun,” laughs Sullivan. Part of that variety also includes speaking about troubleshooting decorative concrete at the World of Concrete.
“Decorative is this offshoot of the concrete industry, there’s an artistic element, as well as engineering and science,” Sullivan explains. “I see a lack of experience—[some] contractors not reading directions, trying to cut corners...The processes for decorative concrete are unforgiving, especially when you cut corners or don’t follow guidelines.”
Sullivan adds that another pitfall is underestimating the schedule of the steps involved. “There tend to be a lot more secondary factors at play, such as temperature, humidity, dew point, and ventilation,” he adds. “These are all learned by experience…And reading directions.”
At the top of Sullivan’s list of things a contractor can do to keep on top of his game: continuing education. In his Concrete Network article “Avoiding Problems with Decorative Concrete Starts Early: Seven Steps to Success Before You Start,” Sullivan writes, “Continue your education as often as you can. Schools, seminars, and product demonstrations are available everywhere. Take advantage of them. Be aware though, not all are equal. Do your research before spending any money…Keep asking questions. Keep learning. Strive to be an expert on what makes you money.”
“[Everyone] needs continuing education to improve the quality of their work,” Sullivan explains. “Be an expert, get good at the basics. Understand the products. Do [your] research. The Concrete Network is a great [research] resource.”
Sullivan also recommends getting involved when attending training, rather than just sitting back and observing. “Get hands on,” he stresses. “On average, less then five percent [of contractors] get involved and do anything…This is not a qualitative industry. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and get dirty. People who ask and get involved succeed.”
Another key to success that Sullivan recommends is focusing on your specialty. “Don’t get carried away with the artistic side [of decorative concrete] before you have the basics mastered,” he advises. “Focus on what makes you money. For every high-end job, there are 50 basic jobs.”
Sullivan forecasts continued growth for the industry, with no sign of slowing up.
“Overlays have come on strong and will continue…There’s lots of grey, already existing concrete out there,” he says, adding that interiors with overlays will also see continued growth.
“All in all, the market is strong,” adds Sullivan. “[But] it concerns me that a growing number of people are getting into the industry, both contractors and manufacturers. Bad jobs affect the whole industry. One job mistake can turn 25 to 30 people off of decorative concrete.”
“Manufacturers want to get into it because they think there’s low cost to get in, but it’s very labor-intensive and service-oriented to be a good manufacturer,” he continues. “All in all, the industry has come a long way and there’s a lot of good growth to go. [But] it will take a lot of discipline from all parties.”
“I hate to see good jobs go bad, but there will always be variables and issues,” Sullivan concludes. “[That’s why] I like the chemistry and quantitative side of my job, solving problems, giving solutions.”
Which is why Sullivan is in the perfect position at QC, as well as in the decorative concrete industry.
24 Comments:
I want to acid stain a slab that has a heavy brush finish on it. I have heard that you can't use a floor machine prior to acid staining because it will leave swirl marks. Is there any way to get rid of the brush marks without leaving swirl marks?
By
John C, at 4:07 PM
i have found your information very hepful on the sealer topics.
thanks,
rusty the curber
By
Anonymous, at 1:04 PM
I have a question about acid staining. What would happen if the acid stain was not properly neutralized or not neutralized at all and two coats of a non-water-based high-gloss polyurethane sealer was applied? Would the color continue to darken? Would you see patchiness and cloudiness in the finish - so that a high-gloss just looks patchy and dull? How is this problem corrected? Also, if the color gets REALLY dark, is there any way to lighten it back up? Thanks in advance for any reply.
By
ftwitty, at 3:06 AM
You really have asked three questions here. The first, regarding neutralizing acid stain is an important question because it is often skipped or misunderstood. Neutralizing after staining and before sealing is critical to get the pH up and remove the residue for proper sealer adhesion. The sealer film and adhesion can be affected if the stain is not neutralized properly. While the color would darken from the sealer application, it could show signs of delaminating in short order, creating areas of dullness or white haze. More details needed to really find out what is going on here. As far as lightening color, the sealer would need to come up before anything could be done. Either chemical or mechanical removal of the sealer can be used, followed by a dilute acid wash (30 or 40 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid) to loosen the stain. A stiff bristle brush can be used to help pull the stain from the concrete. A wet dry vacuum or mop is recommended to remove the stain residue, followed by a neutralizing wash and clean water rinse. Always test these procedures in a small area to dial in the correct dwell time and desired color.
By
Chris Sullivan, at 4:13 PM
I do concrete work in an area that does not permit the use of solvent based sealers. Diamond Clear by Eucoweld has come out with a VOC compliant "shiny sealer" that does not enrich our release colors and never gets very shiny even after four applications. Also the sealer tends to become milky in spots even though the concrete is dry 24hrs. Any thoughts??
Dynamic Ceramic and Concrete
Indiana, PA 15701
724 465-9001
stewart80@verizon.net
By
Anonymous, at 12:44 PM
The product you are referring to is a water based cure and seal. Thin film water based coatings by their nature will have much lower gloss compared to their solvent based counterparts. More coats will help to a point, but then you start to get moisture trap issues (white haze) that you described. On inside projects consider using a high gloss finish (wax) coating with a high-speed buffer to increase gloss. On exterior work, look into some of the new low VOC solvent based sealers. They are more expensive, but generally meet the Federal 400 g/l VOC limit and produce the high gloss you are looking for.
By
Chris Sullivan, at 2:32 PM
We have placed & broom-finished a colored concrete patio slab in the heat of the summer. The majority of the slab was shaded by the house but one end of it was in the sun. The end in the sun set up quite quickly and required some water on the surface to manage the broom finish. The end product was fine in finish but the color on the watered areas was noticably paled. Is there a permanent product that could be effectively used to correct and blend the color of this job prior to sealing?
Jan H
By
Anonymous, at 7:24 PM
What causes a solvent based sealer to delaminate? My distributor said it was something I was doing but I had a 4000 sq ft restaruant in another city come out wonderful but another job it delaminated, the sealer was removed and reapplied, the same thing, delamination. (in both instances the delamination started within 2 weeks and yes the concrete was well cured)Additionally, I saw two other jobs in the areathat had the same problem, different sealer manufacturers, different installers. Is it something with the concrete in the area?
By
kashofa, at 9:49 PM
My questions consist of:
1-Why would the concrete not have colored and "released" to become dark with the sealant as the contractor said they would??
2- Is airbrushing an acceptable form of coloring a counter top or is it flawed?
3-Why does our counter have little bubbles in it or "bumps" in the sealant?
4-Why do our counter tops scratch so easily, (they were supposed to be hard as rock and durable"??
5-How would this problem best be fixed excluding by jack hammer and starting over?
6-Are you available for consultation?
7-The same bubbles have appeared on the floor?
8-We have small pin holes on some surfaces?
Our contractor has supposedly been doing concrete for 10 or so years and did a good job on other projects. I could send pictures if it would help and would be willing to add my pictures to the hall of shame if you think they are worthy. As beautiful as I see your counters are, we hate ours, paid a lot of money, and the guy is still not done. He says he can fix the problems. The problem is I don't know what the problems are or if they are problems. The guy is a smooth talker
By
james, at 10:08 PM
I am currently experimenting with a new Chapin 1999 Solvent based sprayer for applying Chem-Coat solvent sealers. In the past, I have rolled them out and experienced roller lines....hence the desire to move to spraying. Over the past two projects, I have applied the first coat with the sprayer (2parts sealer:1 part xylene) and noticed that the coverage looked great once applied, however as it dried it turned to a horrible result. I had to roll on the other coats to get it to finally blend in. I contacted Chapin and requested a mist nozzle versus the fan nozzle hoping that this would improve the application. However, I am still running into the same problem.
Am I jumping the gun with my expectations of what the seal should look like for the first coat? Is this first coat a somewhat of a "sacrificial" coat that will eventually blend in? My concren is that if I continue to use the process (spray the next coat - remaining about 12-24 inches off the slab) and the results are the same, I will have to strip off all the coatings and re-apply with a roller.
I really want to utilize the spray method becuase of the time saver, plus in the summer, the lap lines run crazy in the sun.
Any guidance in this would be greatly appreciated. I have contacted both the sealer manufacture and sprayer manufacture and both of their responses did not clear up any of this muddy mess.
Thanks for any imput.
By
Anonymous, at 6:11 PM
Jan H.
The use of a solid color stain, like Newlook, will hide the color issue caused by the shade induced curing inconsistency.
C
By
Chris Sullivan, at 11:06 AM
Kashofa,
There are to many factors that could cause a sealer to delaminate to cover in this response. A few things to consider. Moisture, temperature (50-90F, surface preparation (clean and open), and proper application. If it is happening to others in the area, it might be a moisture issue. I would run a moisture test and see what results you get.
By
Chris Sullivan, at 11:14 AM
James - The following are some basic anwers to your questions.
1. Color enhancement depends on solids and carrier (solvent or water) as to how dark it gets. High solids sovlent is darker then low solids water.
2. In small areas to touch up is not an issue.
3. Trapped air or "solvent pop" durign application.
4. Sealers are made from plastic. It should take some abuse (depending on seaelr type), but is not scratch proof.
5. Need to know more about sealer used.
6. Yes.
7 & 8 - Sounds just like #3.
Send me a picture and I will be gald to provide more info. Send info to concretenetwork.com and they will get it to me. Include your email address.
C
By
Chris Sullivan, at 11:26 AM
Regarding spraying sealers, keep at it. You are used to applying a much heavier amount of sealer with a roller. Spraying will require addtional coats, but is much better in the long run. The first coat or two fill the voids. The second and third will even out the sealer. Back rolling across the sealer after you spray is also a good way to even out coats.
By
Chris Sullivan, at 12:03 PM
I have put down 2 coats of sealer and now I have dried bubbles throughtout the surface. What caused this to occur and what can I do to fix it.
Mike
By
Anonymous, at 7:45 AM
I am trying to find a suitable concrete sealer that is durable for the coping around the perimeter of a pool.The coping is a medium to dark colored stamped concrete. I have heard a lot of nightmare stories when the wrong sealer is applied. I want to avoid the yellowing and peeling that comes with some sealers. The stamped concrete coping is three years old and has has only been sealed once.I am unable to locate the contractor for further information on the initial application. Any help would be appreciated.
By
Anonymous, at 11:59 AM
I would reccomend using a low solids solvent based sealer. Less than 20% solids if possible. make sure to use a non yellowing acrylic, and apply in very thin coats.
By
Chris Sullivan, at 5:53 AM
Chris,
I was called about a project in which the owner was wanting to do an overlay over a plywood subfloor. This is in an addition and the client wants to put an overlay in that can be colored and stamped, the height difference between the addition subfloor and existing finished floor is about 1". So is this a good idea and if so would I want to install and hardie board first? What products could I look into that would work in a situation where the overlay is going in over wood? Most of the products i find say to install over existing concrete. Is this doable or just a bad idea all together?
KC
By
Casey, at 5:54 PM
We have a new home with an integral Davis colored floor with radiant heating buried in it.
The main living/dining/kitchen area was done in two pours.
In addition to a colour mismatch between the two pours we also have some serious cracks that became highly visible up after the floor was polished to 800 grit.
One pour is heavy to craze cracking while the other is riddled with 1/16 to 1/18 curing cracks.
The builder covered each pour with a standard Kraft paper after finishing.
We believe this absorbent type paper pulled water from the slab and contributed to the excessive cracking.
Now we are wondering if there is any process that will allow us to fill in the cracks with a matching colour grout/cement
Jim Cross
By
Anonymous, at 6:19 AM
We have a question about recently stripped and sealed scorred/ colored concrete flooring. This is old and previously sealed/ finished concrete. All procedures for stripping and sealing concrete were followed. Floor turned out beautiful. We applied only sealer/ finish product to the floor (6 coats). Problem that arose was when homeowner mopped her floor for the first time the floor streaked (left mop lines). We went in and mopped and burnished the floor. Came back fine (no streaks after burnish). Do we need to add more finish to the floor (to seal off better) to prevent streaking when they mop floor or was there something done wrong in the strip and seal process?
By
Anonymous, at 2:07 PM
Chris,
I am a homeowner. The builder did not compact the ground and a section of the driveway had to be replaced because it had a massive crack. The original concrete is a whitish color and the new (6 months ago) is definitly gray. Will a stain cover this difference in color of the base concrete? The builder is suggesting a stain to prevent repouring the whole driveway.
By
Bill, at 5:04 PM
I am looking to reseal our stained concrete driveway after four years. The orginal person went out of business. What is the different between sealers. I was told to use the same brand. But I do not know which one they used.
By
Tom, at 12:55 PM
We applied sealer over an acid stained concrete back in August outdoors. Now it seems like there is a white haze under the sealer, it apperas to be moisture. Is there anything that can be done to get rid of this moisture? if not, what do you recommend? Strip the floor, what kind of product do you recommend?
By
tbssales, at 1:27 PM
We have a condo on the ground floor and the carpet is wet (in the summer mostly). We found the carpet being directly on the concrete - bare concrete. I suspect water seeping in from below the concrete (a river is some 50 feet away..) but dont know ho to show this + what to do to prenvent the "wet" feeling when walking bare feet. Suggestions are most welcome. TX.
JMP
By
JMP, at 1:28 PM
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